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knots

'Techs'

Basic knots

"A fish lost because the hook pulls out or because the fish gets into a snag is something that can't be helped. Fish lost because of knot failure is a result of poor angling."

Knots - an introduction

There are no 'strong' knots - no matter how well-tied and reliable a knot is, it's still a weak link in the tackle.

Unfortunately, even in the simplest rig you need at least one knot - to tie the hook on - so we're stuck with them. But by choosing the right knot for the job, tying it correctly and avoiding 'granny knots' you can cut your losses.

a good knot?

Two of the commonest ways in which knots fail are when the knot slips and comes undone and when the line breaks next to the knot as it is put under pressure.   These can have several causes.

A Slippery Customer: 

Nylon monofilament isn't the easiest stuff to knot. 

  • Firstly, it is extremely smooth so there is always a natural tendency for the knot to slip. (A slightly curly 'pigtail' at the end of the line is a sure sign that this has happened.)
  • Secondly, line damages easily. Surface abrasions, kinks, twists and general deformation of the cross-sectional profile all reduce line strength.

In the higher breaking strains - above 10lb (4.5kg) - this may not be a significant reduction, but light hook lengths can be weakened by 50% or more. 

Merely tying a knot and pulling it tight damages the line but some knots do more harm than others.

There's a thin line between you and your fish. Don't ignore an unwanted knot in your hook length - replace the hook length.

The 'Old Faithful': 

It is surprising how many anglers pile one granny knot on top of another in the hope that the join won't yield. It only takes one encounter with a sizeable Chub, Carp, Tench, Pike or Barbel to  realise that this faith is misplaced.

Grannies are not designed to do any job in particular. They give a poor return in terms of knot strength - badly deforming the line so that it snaps well before its recommended breaking strain is reached.

Friction: Easing a knot tight causes the line to slide against itself or another item of tackle, under considerable pressure. This generates heat. Excessive heat weakens the line and can even cause it to melt. 

It is essential to lubricate the knot before making it tight - you can do it with water or saliva - but it must be lubricated in some way.  Not only does this help the knot to snug down properly but it prevents the line from weakening.

Weak Links:

Knots are the weak links in your tackle but there is no need to make them any worse by tying them badly. Make sure each knot is secure.

Keep Practising:

Tying knots with fine line on the river bank can be quite fiddly. It is a good idea to practise at home using thick line. Tying small spade end hooks to fine line also requires dexterity especially when your fingers are numb. Tie a stock of them in the comfort of your home and store them in packets or on winder boards, making a note of hook size, line strength and length and when they were tied.

six frequently used knots

1. ​Half Blood Knot 

A simple knot for attaching swivels, legers, hooks etc. But do at least six turns to stop it from slipping.

5. ​Water Knot

A small, neat versatile knot for joining line to line — good for attaching hook lengths and making paternosters.

2. ​Tucked Half Blood Knot

A variant on the blood knot, this knot has the same applications but is less likely to slip.

6. Whipping Knot (a)

This is for tying on spade end hooks. Make a loop and lay it against the hook shank leaving a 6cm (2 1/2in) free end.

3. ​Double Overhand Loop Knot

This is a reliable knot for making a loop in hook lengths or mainline - ideal for the loop-to-loop method.

6. Whipping Knot (b)

Wrap the free end around the loop about eight times and pass it through the loop. Moisten the knot.

4. Loop-to-Loop Knot

A simple and popular method of attaching hook lengths to the mainline. Its only drawback is that it has a tendency to pick up weed.

6. Whipping Knot (c)

Hold free end and apply steady pressure to the hook length so the knot slides tight. The line should come off inside of spade.

Spade End:

If you have trouble tying Spade End Hooks, then try using a Hook Tyer.

Tightening the Knot

Don't pull a knot tight by tugging it. Line has a certain amount of elasticity but a sudden shock loading causes permanent deformation and weakens it. Ease it together slowly under an even pressure.

Twists and Turns

Give your knots a generous number of turns if this is appropriate. If you are advised to do at least half a dozen turns then make sure you do at least half a dozen or else the knot may slide undone when under pressure.

Knot Gone Wrong

Most of the well-known knots look neat if they have been tied correctly. If the finished result looks untidy then it has probably gone wrong. Don't take chances - break the line off and start again. This may be a difficult task if your hands are wet or cold but it is worth it. A knot that has been badly tied doesn't function properly.

Trimming Off

When you've tied a knot you need to trim off any loose ends. Just how close you trim a knot depends on what it is being used for. Before trimming hook knots latch the hook on to something - such as scissor handles - and pull the knot tight. Use the scissors to trim within 1mm of the knot. With other knots - such as those used to tie on swivels - you can afford to leave 3-4mm. Always allow a little for slippage. 

Keep Knots

Keep knots to a minimum. Knotted line may be only 80% of its recommended breaking strain.

Stop Knot